When Miuccia Prada abandoned her signature ladylike aesthetic in favor of dark chunky knits, animal prints, and sky-high platforms for her fall collection, she sent a strong message: The prim lady had officially been substituted by the 21st-century uber-woman. (Presumably, the former muse is off fending for herself somewhere in the urban jungle....) And Prada wasn't alone: In New York, Milan, and Paris, the runway heroine du jour represented a dramatic departure from the fresh-faced girls and submissive sex kittens of seasons past. The sartorial shift was also accompanied by a new crop of beauty trends, with blood red lips eclipsing shimmer, smoldering eyes ousting beach-bunny bronzer, and pin-straight hair surpassing more romantic styles. Here, the top six beauty trends from the fall 2006 shows.
Hot Lips
Lippmann Collection
Along with trousers, tulip skirts, and ankle boots, bold lipstick is part of the power woman's fall uniform. (Think of it as war paint to garnish your new, no-nonsense attitude.) Tuleh's '40s-style collection inspired a high-sheen berry lip, while Valentino's matte red added a shot of color to the designer's largely colorless collection. Jill Stuart chose a slippery purple, while Behnaz Sarafpour, Miu Miu, and Diane von Furstenberg all opted for classic crimsons. At Alice Roy, nearly black lips were a excellent complement to the designer's edgy, neo-punk vision.
Trend Tips: The key to wearing bold lip colors is retention the rest of your makeup minimal (combining this trend with a smoky eye or heavy blush will lead to positive disaster). For more staying power, add a sheer coat of foundation to lips first, followed by a light dusting of powder and lipliner. Apply the color in some light coats, blotting with a tissue in the middle of each layer.
Best Bets: Nars Lipstick in Fire Down Below, Chanel Rouge Hydrabase in Shanghai Red, Tarte duplicate Ended Lipgloss in Bonnie & Clyde, Clinique Quickliner for Lips in Deep Red, Sephora Jumbo Pencil in Raspberry, Sally Hansen brilliant Lip medicine in always Asher.
The Eyes Have It
Eye makeup was unusually restrained for spring, but it made a serious comeback at the fall shows. At Allessandro Dell'Acqua, eyes were rimmed with sexy rock-goddess smudges; at Rochas, the lines were blurred with moody black shadows; and at Missoni and Narciso Rodriguez, the models wore thick '80s-inspired liner on the lowest lids. Victor & Rolf and Armani both shifted the focus to the top lid with retro-style wings, while Zac Posen, J. Mendel, and Badgley Mischka opted for an eye that was both dramatic and wearable. You probably won't see Christian Dior's or Gucci's theatrical looks at the office, but both will supply abundance of inspiration for more experimental beauty addicts.
Trend Tips: If you're using a pencil that's too hard, heat it under the hair dryer for a few seconds to soften the tip (just be careful not to melt the liner or burn yourself). If you have small eyes, keep the emphasis on top, rather than on the lower lid. And if you have bags or circles, use concealer--without it, dark liner will only emphasize undereye problems.
Best Bets: M.A.C. Eyeshadow in Black Tied, Urban Decay Glide-on Pencil in Zero, Sue Devitt Eye Intensifier Pencil in Pointe-Noire, Goldie Smudgable Liquid Line in Maha, Too Faced Lava Gloss Super slippery Eyeliner in Chocolate, Nyc Brow/Eye Liner Pencil in 921.
Devil May Care
The minimalist makeup that swept the spring runways also made an appearance for fall. But this time, barely there faces seem to make a more subversive statement (think unabashedly naked, as opposed to coquettishly nude). In the absence of color, the spotlight shifted to a strong brow at Yves Saint Laurent, Chloé, and Fendi, while Jil Sander's and Balenciaga's underdone arrival put the models' luminous skin and bone structure town stage. At Marc Jacobs, considered chosen hints of neutral color complemented the designer's heavily layered collection.
Trend Tips: For a face that looks uncontrived but not disheveled, spend in a good-quality concealer and brow gel. To camouflage flaws and even out your complexion, use a tinted moisturizer or primer. And to keep skin from finding flat, sweep an iridescent highlighter along the cheeks and browbones.
Best Bets: Laura Mercier Foundation Primer, Smashbox synthetic Light Luminizing Lotion, advantage Moon Beam, Lauren Hutton Tinted Moisturizer + Sheer Concealer, Biotherm Light Catch Moisturizing Illuminating Concealer, Sue Devitt Aromatic Camouflage Concealer.
Lighter Side
Although dark lips ruled some runways, other designers opted for pale pouts--the excellent foil to this season's intense eye makeup. Chanel's beige lip evoked the '60s, Dolce & Gabbana's golden take complemented the designer's opulent couture, and Burberry's pale pink transformed the models from fresh-faced girls into cool ice queens. Alberta Ferretti's powdery version was paired with a shimmery golden eye, while Celine and Carolina Herrera each offered a sheerer take on the trend.
Trend Tips: Although it's striking on the runway, a pale lip that's too beige or matte can look deadly in real life. To keep from finding like a corpse, pick lipsticks and glosses with a tiny peach (if your skin tone is warm) or pink (if you're cool), and conclude with a dab of clear gloss.
Best Bets: M.A.C. Lipglass in Uberpeach, Dior Addict Ultra-Gloss, Jaqua Carmel Cappuccino Lip Whip, Shu Uemura Lolishine Rouge in 968, Too Faced brilliant Gloss in Lilac, Clarins Color Quench Lip Balm No. 10.
The Tip-Off
Nails went to extremes this season, from polish-free and clear-coated to dark, goth-style tips (with approximately nothing in between). Gone were the brights, the glitter, and the nail art--fall's sophisticated lady wears somber nail colors or none at all. Most designers chose a colorless look, including J. Mendel and Derek Lam. At Marc Jacobs, the models didn't wear polish but kept their nails finding neat with Essie's Cuticle Pen. In contrast, Nanette Lepore's wore Essie's Wicked, a rich burgundy-brown, while Alice Roy's were treated to an even darker shade in retention with the show's nearly black lips.
Trend Tips: Colorless nails and dark, vampy enamels can both draw attentiveness to imperfections, so be sure cuticles are neat. In addition, keep tips no longer than one-half the distance of your nail bed, and use a ridge-filler or ridge-filling base coat to create a plane surface.
Best Bets: Essie Cuticle Pen and Wicked Nail Colour, Lippmann Collection Nail Polish in Sophisticated Lady, Opi Ridge Filler, La Cross Curved-Blade Nail Scissors, Avon Nailwear Nail Enamel in Femme, Elizabeth Arden Nail Polish in Christopher St. Cappuccino C, Creative Nail organize Nail Polish in Voodoo.
Straight Edge
It seems like just last year--and it was--that women were finally ditching their flatirons, and granted, the shows did see some wavy styles and romantic updos. But the biggest news in hair was the return of long, pin-straight strands. Getting the look can be grueling for many women, but Carolina Herrera, Bill Blass, Luca Luca, Stella McCartney, and Versace all opted for sleek, center-parted locks. Pucci, Costume National, and Ralph Lauren chose similar styles with just a bit of bend on the bottom, while right tresses were side-parted and left loose at Marni, casually secured at Moschino, and slickly swept at Giambattista Valli.
Trend Tips: For smoother results and to cut the risk of damage, apply a dime-size whole of a heat-protecting and defrizzing stock evenly throughout damp strands. When you blow-dry, work in small sections from the lowest to the top of your head, and if you're using a flatiron, keep it thoughprovoking to forestall singeing.
Best Bets: Farouk Chi Ceramic Flatiron, Sedu Ionic Ceramic Tourmaline Straightener, Frederic Fekkai Glossing Cream, Ojon Hydrating Styling Cream, John Frieda right retort Styling Spray, Philip B. Drop Dead Straightening Baume, Iso Tamer Smoothing Defrizzing Gel, Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Serum.
Power Play: Fall charm Trends straight from the Runway
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